Archives for the month of: October, 2022
Media City

When deciding on a destination for a holiday, Manchester may not be somewhere that immediately springs to mind. However, much as we love going abroad, we’re also keen to explore parts of the UK that we haven’t yet got round to visiting, and so chose Manchester for an autumnal city break.

As the railways have been in a state of disarray recently I decided the best route was to go from London St Pancras to Sheffield and then across to Manchester – a combination of engineering works and general chaos on the direct route from Euston meant that a slightly longer but hopefully more reliable route seemed more tempting. We were also rewarded with some lovely views of the Peak District.

Peak District from train

Our hotel was very centrally located with views over the city, and had mosaics by William Mitchell, known for his ornate Egyptian escalator in Harrods department store.

View from room and mosaics

As we enjoy football stadium tours, going to one of the most famous in the world, Old Trafford, was high on our list of things to do. The tour was great with a very knowledgeable guide, who also provided plenty of football banter which was appreciated by my son! These tours get booked up well in advance so it’s best to reserve a few weeks ahead if possible.

Theatre of Dreams

Just across the river from Old Trafford is Media City. This huge complex of studios is home to many BBC and ITV programmes, and also contains The Lowry, a performing arts centre that includes paintings by the local artist LS Lowry. His works depicting everyday life in industrial cities can be seen in various museums throughout Manchester.

Media City including bee sculpture, a symbol of Manchester, representing the hard working people of the city
The Lowry

To get around we used the excellent MetroLink tram system, which seemed to run regularly and reliably. There was also a free bus service around some central areas although we didn’t need to use this.

Trams at Exchange Square and Imperial War Museum

Other museums we visited included the National Football Museum, the Imperial War Museum North and the People’s History Museum, which tells the story of democracy and houses the largest collection of banners in the world.

National Football Museum which includes many fun activities
Imperial War Museum North, designed by Daniel Libeskind, who was the architect responsible for planning the reconstruction of the World Trade Center site in New York
One of a large number of political banners on display in the People’s History Museum

Fans of retail therapy will enjoy the Trafford Centre. Whilst I don’t really enjoy browsing around shops it is quite impressive, with the biggest and best designed food court I’ve ever seen.

The Trafford Centre

Manchester is a really vibrant city with a great selection of restaurants, bars and cafés. There is a lot of construction going on and it has an interesting mixture of older industrial architecture juxtaposed with modern buildings. There are also some wonderfully quirky shops such as the alternative retailers housed in Afflecks shopping centre in the lively Northern Quarter.

Street art

Our hotel was near Chinatown which had a wide variety of restaurants and bubble tea cafés.

Manchester Chinatown

On our final day we went to Manchester Art Gallery. This had a large selection of artworks including Lowry and Pierre Adolphe Valette, a French Impressionist who lived in Manchester and was Lowry’s tutor, each influencing the other.

This painting by Valette is the first to show an industrial building lit by electricity rather than gas

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Manchester and it offered everything we look for in a city break – plenty to see, museums, restaurants, architecture and good transport. As we only saw a small amount of what it has to offer I’m sure it’s a place we will return to in the future.

Statue of the first dog, Petra, from much loved children’s TV programme Blue Peter, in the Blue Peter garden in Media City
Queluz Palace

One of the things I enjoy about travel is exploring new places, however there are some destinations I love so much that I’m happy to go back again and again. Lisbon is one of these, and having family connections to the city gives us the perfect excuse to visit on a regular basis. There is so much to do that I still have a long list of things to see in the future, and a lot of these are off the tourist trail which has become increasingly busy in recent years.

Top of our places to visit on our recent trip was Queluz Palace. This is included on the website of the better known Sintra palaces, but is located closer to Lisbon, a few stops on the Sintra train line. A quick word on Sintra – I have been there several times now, to walk around the picturesque town and to visit family, but the crowds have put me off visiting any of the palaces themselves.

Sintra in 2019

Compared to lots of attractions in the Lisbon area it was therefore a nice surprise to have no queue on arrival at Queluz Palace, we were able to buy very reasonably priced tickets and go straight in. The interior was beautiful, and the grounds were some of the nicest I’ve ever been to, with perfectly tended gardens.

Queluz Palace and grounds

Another museum we’ve been meaning to visit for a while is the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, or Tile Museum. Whilst not one of the busiest, this is quite popular so it’s definitely worth getting there fairly early to avoid the queues. Portugal is famous for the mainly blue and white decorative tiles which can be found both inside and on the outside of buildings, and even in the Metro. The museum is set within an old convent and includes a spectacular chapel, as well as tiles through the ages.

A selection of tiles, chapel, and part of the tile panorama of Lisbon

A favourite trip for us to do when in Lisbon is to get the train from Cais do Sodré along to the fairly upmarket seaside resort of Cascais. We have a walk around by the beach, an ice cream at Santini and look around the centre which has some nice little lanes with plenty of eateries. This time we also visited the Casa das Histórias Paula Rego. This museum of her somewhat thought provoking work is set in a building which is itself a work of art.

Beach, Paula Rego museum and walk around back streets

Some of the most famous views of Lisbon show the 25 April Bridge going across the River Tejo. There are various parts of the river that we enjoy walking along, and when we were there three years ago we visited the Electricity Museum in Belém. This is set in an old power station, perfect if you like the grandeur of old industrial equipment. It’s next to MAAT, a fairly new art museum in a fantastic building that has a roof you can walk up and over. Despite being just a short walk along the river from the main tourist attractions of Belém, the crowds don’t make it this far along.

MAAT with Ponte 25 de Abril
Sculptures on roof of MAAT

Much further along the river, away from the city centre but easily accessible by Metro, is the Parque das Nações. This was the venue of Expo 98, and is a large area of modern architecture, also including a shopping centre, Aquarium and Science Museum. It’s good to visit at any time of the day but we particularly enjoy going there in the evenings as it’s a lovely location for a meal and post dinner stroll. I was very excited to finally see the massive lynx by Bordalo II, who creates animal sculptures out of rubbish. This was installed just after we last visited Lisbon and covid scuppered our plans to go again until recently.

Bordalo II lynx
Riverside walkway including cable cars and pavilion

There is one part of Portuguese culture that is quite controversial, an event that I’d imagine most tourists would have no interest in but is worth talking about as it still exists – bullfighting. Whilst the vast majority of the population has no interest in bullfighting, unfortunately it does still take place in the Campo Pequeno, an architecturally interesting building that most of the time promotes its more acceptable attractions of restaurants, a cinema, concerts etc. As opposed to Spanish bullfighting the bull is injured rather than outright killed, but I don’t think most people would argue that this is anything other than barbaric. I would imagine that going forwards there will be less support for bullfighting leading to an eventual ban. We saw a couple of posters up in the area near the Campo Pequeno, one of which was from the political party PAN, who promote environmental and animal causes, saying that banning bullfighting would be progress, whilst the other was obviously a reply to this defending the rights of those who want to protect this aspect of their “traditions”. The increasing number of vegan restaurants I’ve noticed in Lisbon would seem to indicate that the culture is nowadays a much more caring one, in which such traditions will soon no longer have a place.

Campo Pequeno with posters both for and against bullfighting

Next time we go to Lisbon we’re planning to explore some more of the lesser known corners of the city as well as getting the train down to the nearby city of Setúbal. I’ve also written posts about transport and food in Lisbon for those who are interested.