Archives for the month of: September, 2022

Switzerland is a country I’d wanted to go to for a long time and it’s known for being expensive, but as we found some extremely cheap flights to Basel we thought that would partly offset the extra cost. We were also lucky to find a very reasonably priced hotel in the centre, which combined with free public transport made it seem much more affordable.

View of trams from hotel

One of Switzerland’s largest cities, Basel is at the point where Switzerland, France and Germany meet and some of its suburbs are in those other two countries. On arrival at the somewhat appropriately named EuroAirport you are actually on French soil, but exit following the signs to Switzerland and the bus will quickly whisk you across the border. As mentioned, we had free public transport. Whilst transport isn’t actually free, it is for hotel guests in Swiss cities. Our hotel gave us a pass which entitled us to use the buses and trams, and as long as you can produce proof of accommodation if requested then transport from the airport is also free, provided that you stay within the Swiss parts of Basel.

Basler Rathaus (town hall)

The centre of Basel is very pleasant with pedestrianised streets and plenty of interesting buildings, there are also nice walks by the river Rhine.

River Rhine and Münsterplatz

Basel is known for having many museums, especially of art. Rather than go to one of the larger museums we decided to go to two smaller ones – the Cartoon Museum and the Paper Mill Museum. Both were very enjoyable and not too busy, and offered something a bit different to the standard museum fare. The Paper Mill had old preserved equipment and hands on activities, we’ve been to several of these industrial museums and they’re always good (others we’ve visited include the Industrial Gas Museum in Athens, the Electricity Museum in Lisbon and the Rice Museum in Valencia).

Part of the old Paper Mill now converted into a museum

I was fascinated by the fact that Basel has a tripoint where three countries meet, and so we got the tram to the north of the city where you can visit Dreiländereck, a monument next to the river near to where Switzerland, Germany and France converge.

Dreiländereck, blue skies on a freezing February day

After seeing the monument we walked up the road and across the border to Germany. Coming from the UK it always feels quite a novelty to wander so easily into another country! Just across the other side is a shopping centre where the prices were considerably cheaper and I’d imagine it’s well used by the inhabitants of the Swiss part of the city. There was also a fantastic Chinese buffet restaurant which had views across the river to France – the French suburbs of Basel were just a short walk across the adjacent footbridge, the Passerelle des Trois Pays. There are trams to this area from the centre of Basel but it’s important to remember to get off at the border, as once across you’ll need to pay the fare because it’s in Germany, and the free travel offer to visitors therefore no longer applies.

Dinner in Germany with views across to France

Eating out in Basel was expensive, so as well as the cheaper buffet in Germany we managed to find a reasonably priced pub-style restaurant offering traditional Swiss food near the river docks back in Switzerland. It had a very cosy feel with wood panelling. I had the potato based rösti topped with a fried egg followed by cassata for dessert. Now cassata can refer to more than one type of dessert, the best known being the Sicilian cake with ricotta cheese. This however was the cassata I remember from my childhood – layers of ice cream with candied fruit, and very nice it was too. It definitely added to the retro feel of the evening.

Rosti and cassata at Schiff restaurant

We were in Basel in the run up to Fasnacht, the annual carnival. Whilst we didn’t see the parade itself there were lots of displays in the shops and it seemed to be quite a big event, the largest in Switzerland.

Fasnacht mask displays

On our final day we visited the Markthalle, an indoor market area with various restaurants and the fairly unusual and fun feature of a slide between floors – something I have since seen in the Mall of Berlin, although that one was closed due to covid precautions.

How to make a quick exit

As the shops were so expensive we didn’t buy anything on our meanderings around the centre (not that we’re really into shopping anyway) but there was plenty to look at without spending any money.

Some of the city centre sights

And finally, we normally ignore the ubiquitous airport Toblerone bars, nice though they are, but it seemed appropriate to succumb to their delights whilst in their spiritual home! I can recommend a short break in Basel as a little taste of Switzerland, with the advantage of cheaper options for eating available across the nearby border so that it doesn’t break the bank.

Plaça de l’Ajuntament

I’ve been to many cities over the years and it’s rare for me to find one that I’m not enthusiastic about, but if I had to pick a favourite then Valencia would be one of my top choices. I’ve only been there twice but both times were enough for me to realise how much I loved it. Valencia doesn’t attract as many tourists as some other places in Spain, but has a mixture of city and beach that should be enough to satisfy most people. It’s worth mentioning that there are quite a few hotels with rooftop pools, something that isn’t essential for us but is always enjoyable as a way to cool down and get a good view over a city.

Mestalla stadium

We always like to do a football stadium tour when possible, so on the first day we went to the Mestalla stadium which was well worth visiting. It’s in a very central location, this is reflected in the sides of the stadium being steep so it can fit into the surrounding area. Afterwards it’s a short stroll into the centre where we sampled some local delicacies at the Mercat de Colón.

Fartons at Orxateria Daniel

Fartons are a type of cake with a consistency similar to bread, a bit like a long bun. They’re a speciality of the region and go particularly well with a chilled glass of horchata (also spelt orxata), a sweet plant based milky drink made from tiger nuts.

Paella by the sea

Valencia is the home of paella, there are many different types and a good choice of restaurants along the beachfront area. It’s worth noting that some restaurants don’t open until 9pm, which takes some getting used to for those of us who tend to dine much earlier! Along with Spanish cuisine we found some excellent Italian and Chinese restaurants, a bonus being that prices are still far lower than many other places in Europe.

Malva-Rosa beach

Whilst we’re not beach holiday people, we do enjoy having a walk along the seafront and perhaps a quick dip in the sea, this is easy to do in Valencia as the tram takes you directly there from the centre.

I haven’t yet mentioned some of the main highlights for me of a trip to Valencia – a walk through the Jardín del Turia, and the City of Arts and Sciences.

Palau de les Arts in the Jardín del Turia

The Jardín del Turia is a long stretch of parkland that was created in a disused riverbed, it stretches approximately twelve kilometres through the city and is a wonderful place for walking or cycling. There are also some interesting bridges across the park, which ends at the magnificent City of Arts and Sciences.

Calatrava bridges Pont de les Flors and Pont de l’Exposició

One of my favourite architects is Santiago Calatrava, and some of his best creations can be seen in Valencia, in particular the cultural complex known as the Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències, which contains a science museum, opera house, aquarium and cinema.

L’Hemisfèric and Science Museum

We visited the Science Museum, which had many hands on activities including a Lego exhibition, it’s a fantastic area to walk around just to enjoy the architecture.

Science Museum

Also worth a visit are the Botanical Gardens which contain a huge variety of specimens, with the added attraction of lots of cats! These are part of a colony that live in the gardens and are fed and receive veterinary treatment.

A relaxing place to spend a few hours

We also visited the Central Market, the modern art museum IVAM, the Military Museum and the Museu de l’Arròs, which is a small but interesting renovated former rice mill.

Valencia is an ideal city for walking but also has trams and a metro system, which is particularly useful for getting from the airport to the centre. As someone who loves languages, I was fascinated by the use of the local Valencian dialect, a variant of Catalan, in street signs and place names, and it’s quite easy to understand if you know other Latin languages.

City centre, street art and Estació del Nord train station

There is far more to do in Valencia than I’ve mentioned here, but hopefully I’ve given a bit of an insight into why I love it so much.